It’s hard not to compare any food-centric travelogue series to Anthony Bourdain’s acclaimed No Reservations or Parts Unknown.
And if you only watch the premiere episode of Stanley Tucci’s new National Graphic series, Tucci in Italy, you could easily write it off as Diet Bourdain. It checks all the travelogue boxes — exquisite cinematography of the gorgeous Tuscan countryside and cityscape, cuisine ranging from street food to hometown kitchens, and a dab of history. It’s all very palatable but ultimately forgettable television. The premiere lacks all the swagger, the social engagement and the human element that made Bourdain’s work so good and so memorable. In short: it lacks any sort of substance.
This is exactly why you need to watch beyond the premiere episode of Tucci in Italy. By the second episode, this series finds itself. By the end of the series you’ll realize that comparing Tucci in Italy to Bourdain is like comparing Iggy Pop to Frank Sinatra. They both work in the same medium; they couldn’t be any more different in style, presentation and scope.
By the time we get midway through the second episode, Stanley Tucci evolves from a man walking around Italy in a sharp suit and smart glasses into our travel companion. He is all of us as he makes audible groans when he dives into a beautifully cut steak, or gets excited over a delicious cheese dish, or visibly melts as a family slides a heaping helping of homemade history onto his plate.
His charm and his infectious yet calm enthusiasm at the mere sight of food brings us into the series. But, this is the series’ Trojan Horse. Once we’re hooked into Stanley’s adventures, we’re brought into the heart of the series — the real, prescient issues that abound in the different regions of Italy. Tucci, like Bourdain, tackles the ideas of gay marriage and adoption, cultural identity, the rise of conservative political ideology, the importance of immigrants in Italy and the struggles and backlash they experience, and the shifting cultural identity.
This “trojan horse” illustrates how Tucci in Italy is more than just an expensive excuse for the beloved actor to eat well in beautiful backdrops. This series is Tucci bringing us into his deep exploration into the country he loves. He hosts with a scholarly, insightful and warmth and his appreciation of the people he encounters jumps off the screen. He wants us, the viewer, to fully grasp the history, culture and cuisine of Italy — warts and all.
Tucci in Italy is a terrific series that is both epicurean escapism and an honest look at a country whose cuisine so many of us dine on everyday.
